Growing up in San Diego, there are countless activities to engage in that are just a walk, ride, or cruise away. Warm weather year-round encourages anyone and everyone to be outdoors playing under the rays, catching a sun-kissed tan. As a Southern Californian, I naturally chose surfing as my activity of choice since the start of my youth. I remember being jolted with inspiration while watching surf competitions on TV, admiring professional surfers who carved through waves and barrels majestically.
Before attempting surf, I did research for days discovering types of surfboards, watching beginner videos, and following professional surfers. After a week, I picked up a used surfboard from a seasoned surfer named Roger off Craigslist. He was a wise man who shared stories about how surfing got him through tough times in his life, and how it brought him back to joy every time he went to catch a wave. At that point, I was more motivated than ever to start my surf adventures, and eager to wade into the ocean with my board.
A few days after picking up my board, I woke up the morning on the first day of summer, surf's prime season. My friends were determined to go to the beach as heat swept through San Diego, and that was the perfect day to begin my surfing adventures. My first time out, my experience consisted of paddling endlessly and getting tossed by waves left and right, similar to most beginners. However, I was able to catch a wave that first day. Despite the fact I only caught that one wave after 4 hours of trying, it was well worth the wait and the exhaustion. I felt exhilarated and accomplished, getting my feet wet and gliding along to the rhythm of the ocean.
Surfing is a feeling that is like no other, pushing up against a rolling wave while you coordinate power, direction, and balance. It takes patience, determination, and having your mind set on the goal: to master the waves. People can explain it to you, but diving in for the first time is what really gets my adrenaline and love for surf flowing. Until this day, the ocean is my playground, and surfing still gives me the same feeling of inspiration that I felt during my first encounter.
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Kevin Teran Sport Player at Decathlon USA Surf/ Snowboarding Enthusiast Information Systems Major at San Francisco State University Follow my life adventures on Instagram: Kev.Teran |
